Genoa climbs from its working harbour into a maze of caruggi and steep residential streets. With the Porto Antico, the palazzi of Via Garibaldi and two main rail stations spread across those slopes, the exact hotel address matters.
The old town threads between the waterfront and Piazza De Ferrari. San Lorenzo Cathedral, Palazzo Ducale and Via Garibaldi are close on foot, but the narrow lanes can be confusing after dark. A room on a main piazza is easier to find at night than one tucked into a caruggio.
At Porto Antico, the Aquarium and the harbour walks are right beside the medieval centre. West of there, Principe is the stop for trains and the cruise and ferry terminals. East of Piazza De Ferrari, Brignole has the other station, and Via XX Settembre has the shopping streets.
Genoa stretches far along the Ligurian coast. Corso Italia leads to Boccadasse, a small fishing village with a pebble beach. Farther east, Nervi has parks and the Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi above the rocks. Stay there for the sea, but allow a train journey back to central museums.
Walk the city in spring and early summer. July and August have the warmest afternoons. October and November tend to be wetter, so keep a museum in reserve. The city is steep, and a short route on the map can be a hard climb, so use the lifts, funiculars and metro.