Santander faces its sheltered bay on one side and the open Cantabrian Sea on the other. The centre is around the cathedral and Centro Botín. El Sardinero, the beach district, is past the Magdalena peninsula.
The 1941 fire destroyed much of the old centre. Around Plaza Porticada and the cathedral, rebuilt streets lead downhill to the Jardines de Pereda and the waterfront art centre, Centro Botín. The bus and railway stations are close together at the western edge of the centre.
Walk east along Paseo de Pereda to Puertochico and continue past the Maritime Museum toward the Magdalena peninsula. Across the headland, Primera and Segunda Playa del Sardinero run beside broad promenades and old resort hotels. Stay in the centre for ferries and trains, or in Sardinero to be on the sand.
Summer here is milder than on Spain’s Mediterranean coast. Expect rain in any season, most of all in autumn. Pack a light layer even in July or August. If your hotel is outside the centre, check the bus route.