Viareggio has a long sandy seafront, Liberty-era cafés, pinewoods and a working port. From a hotel on the Passeggiata, the beach entrances and evening walks are on your doorstep. The station and the quieter southern shore are farther away.
The Passeggiata runs behind the central bathing beaches. Gran Caffè Margherita and other tiled Liberty façades face the sea. Piazza Mazzini is a handy landmark for placing seafront rooms. Don’t assume a sunbed comes with the room: ask whether the hotel has a beach arrangement.
Inland from the promenade, Pineta di Ponente has shade, cycle paths and play areas. The station is farther back from the shore. A hotel between the station and Piazza Mazzini is easy with luggage, but the beach is a walk away, not across the road.
South of the Burlamacca canal, Darsena has the port, fish restaurants and the route out to the free beach at Lecciona. Pineta di Levante lies between the built-up waterfront and Torre del Lago. This side is quieter and more spread out. The central Passeggiata is farther away.
Viareggio is a different town during Carnival, when paper-mâché floats parade along the seafront. Summer is about the beach. In the cooler months, the promenade and cafés are worth the trip on their own. Pisa and Lucca are easy train trips from Viareggio station.