Taormina rises above the Ionian shore. Corso Umberto and the ancient theatre sit on the hill, while Mazzarò and Isola Bella are down by the water. Decide which level you want to wake up on.
Corso Umberto runs between Porta Messina and Porta Catania. Piazza IX Aprile, the Duomo and the side lanes are easy to explore on foot. The Teatro Antico lies beyond the eastern end of the pedestrian core. Rooms along the busiest stretch hear evening foot traffic.
The funivia descends from Via Pirandello to Mazzarò. Beach hotels here spare you the climb after a swim, but dinner in the old town means the cable car, the bus or a steep walk uphill. Isola Bella sits just south of Mazzarò, and its shore is pebbly, not a broad sandy beach.
Taormina-Giardini railway station stands below the town, beside the coast road. The bus terminal is nearer the centre at Via Pirandello. Most of Corso Umberto is pedestrianised and the main car parks are outside its gates, so ask your hotel where you can stop.
April, May and autumn are better than midsummer for theatre visits and hill walks. Midsummer heat and crowds build along the shore. The monthly figures below come from nearby Messina on the coast, so expect the old town to run a little different.