Seville sits on the Guadalquivir. The Cathedral and Real Alcázar are on one bank, and the ceramic workshops of Triana are on the other. The old centre is a walking city, but in summer the heat sets your hours.
The Cathedral, Giralda and Real Alcázar stand within a few blocks of each other at the edge of Santa Cruz. This former Jewish quarter has narrow lanes, small squares and plenty of hotels. It also gets the heaviest sightseeing crowds. Walk west to the river for the Torre del Oro, then cross the Puente de Isabel II to Triana.
Triana is the old ceramics and flamenco quarter. The Mercado de Triana and Centro Cerámica Triana sit near the bridge, and Calle Betis faces the river. North of the Cathedral, the shopping streets around Sierpes lead to Las Setas and the bars of Alameda de Hércules. Stay up here for evenings out, not for an early start at the monuments.
South of the centre, Plaza de España and Parque de María Luisa are wide and open after the old lanes. Santa Justa station is east of the historic core. Book in Nervión for a rail arrival or a match at Estadio Ramón Sánchez-Pizjuán. The EA airport bus stops at Santa Justa and continues past the southern edge of the centre to Plaza de Armas.
Spring and autumn are the easy months for walking. July and August average highs around 97 °F, so see the outdoor sights in the morning or evening and check that the room has good air conditioning. Semana Santa and the Feria de Abril bring big crowds. If either festival is the reason for your trip, book early.